Following our exploits on Navarino Island we crossed over the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia. Without a real plan or big expectations we did a quick search for multi-day hikes in the area and randomly settled for the Valdivieso Circuit. In doing so, we feel like we accidentally unearthed a little gem. The trek might not have a big name like the Huemul Circuit or the O-Trek, but as a result it did have many of the features that we came to Patagonia for:
-It‘s fully self-supported. A couple of campsite suggestions, but that‘s about it, as far as infrastructure is concerned.
-If you thought the Dientes de Navarino was an exclusive affair, think again. There were literally no other people out there. The trek doesn‘t have that fancy „southernmost“ tag, though.
-The rivers and lakes are clear, capital C, and the landscapes are just amazing.
-This trek has countless incredible spots to pitch your tent.
-We did a three day loop, but you can play around and extend the trek to almost infinity.
-BUT the Valdivieso, unlike many other Patagonian treks, does not have that one hallmark photo motive à la Torres Base or Fitz Roy and no insane glacier views like the Huemul. Other than that, we think it‘s good stuff.
Stats
Valdivieso Circuit is a 48km hike with 2460 meters of elevation. We did it over three days.
How to get there
You can fly to Ushuaia from a number of cities. Or take the bus from Punta Arenas. We made the trip across from Puerto Williams by boat. To get to the trailhead, we just took an uber. Taxis, mind you, only accept cold, hard cash in Argentina.
The hike
Day 1 – Trailhead at Senda Hacheros to Salto del Azul (15,5km, 880m)
We started in bad weather on a short trail towards Cascada Beban that was followed by a flat swampy section. We made it a full five kilometers with dry feet.
After the swamp the trail went uphill with the Paso Beban being the highest point of the day. The last pitch is steep but not super crazy. On the way down the other side the weather slowly cleared and we found a great spot for the night next to one of the many small lakes.
Day 2 – Salto del Azul to Paso Valdivieso (12km, 875m)
We continued further down the valley and turned left at its far end. From there we went uphill again to Paso Mariposa. Very often there‘s not a clear trail, so GPS for navigation is highly recommended. After the downhill from the Paso Mariposa we continued on to Paso Valdivieso until we found a good spot for tze night. And find one we did! We already liked our first campground, but this one just took the cake. We set up our tent right in front of one of the many lakes, had a quick swim, cooked dinner and waited for the sun to set. Perfection!
Day 3 – Paso Valdivieso to Ruta 3 (20,5km, 700m)
Day three started with a downhill to the Carbajal Valley. At about the halfway point of the descent we saw markings that would have turned us left. But we decided to follow our GPS track, which lead us all the way down to the valley and then left. For the first part through the Carbajal Valley we doubted our earlier choice, because what ensued was a tedious search for a way through a dense forest and swamp without a footprint to be found. We eventually ended up on a clear trail but only after an hour or so.
The rest of the way along Rio Olivia was flat, but it is a constant walk across swampy terrain that feels like marching on wet pillows. We then turned right one last time and headed southeast. The trek ends eventually at Ruta 3.
Very often there was no clear trail and at one point we found ourselves struggling through shoulder high thorn bushes. Maybe we went astray at some point, maybe there once was a trail that had not been maintained, whatever the case may be, that thorn bush ordeal was definitely the low point of the trek. But we‘d argue that‘s a fair price to pay, if you want a part of the Patagonian wilderness for yourself for three days.
Back at the main road we hitchhiked the last stretch into Ushuaia.
Conclusion
There‘s not much left to say about the Valdivieso Circuit. It‘s quiet, it‘s beautiful, it‘s what we were looking for in Patagonia.
