Following our introduction to Patagonia with the O-Trek in Torres del Paine, we wanted to do something more off the beaten track.
Scanning over Strava heatmaps around Torres del Paine we noticed a clear trek close to Rio Serrano, which is just outside the southwest entry of Torres del Paine. The trail turned out to be the route of the annual Ultra Fiord trailrunning competition. So not a backpacking trek per se, but we figured why not have a look at it.
Some favorable features of this rather experimental trek are:
-the fact that this does not show up anywhere as a backpacking trail. As a result we did not meet a single person out there.
-Navigation is easy because the way is marked by blue sticks from the trailrunning race.
-There are several different distance categories in the Ultra Fiord race. So you can choose how big of an adventure you want to make this.
-This trail is not in a national park. So the way we understand it, you can pitch your tent wherever you want.
-You get the full frontal view of Torres del Paine that is not part of the O-Trek or W-Trek.
Stats
If you decide to hike in this area, it‘s probably easiest to check out the strava heatmap or the Ultra Fiord race map and draw your own route depending on how long you want to be gone for. The possibilities are endless. We did a short 32km loop with 1230m elevation over two days.
How to get there
We had a rental car, so we just drove out to Rio Serrano and parked at the trail head. But be warned. The road is very poor shape. You can also catch a bus from Puerto Natales to Rio Serrano.
The hike
Day 1 (9,3km, 750m)
Other than the aforementioned heatmap, we knew nothing about the trail. The plan was to spend the first night at a certain nameless lake that looked promising on the satellite map. The dense vegetation however made it impossible to actually reach the lake so we opted for a different spot, which ticked the following boxes: shelter from the wind, a flat spot for our tent and a clear creek just next to it.
Day 2 (22,7km, 1480m)
Once you get above the treeline, you‘re rewarded with a great view of Torres del Paine. Paine Grande, Cuernos, the whole shabang.
The landscape is otherworldly. Tons of small lakes, snow fields and barren rock.
We had overcast and windy weather. Maybe not the best for hiking, but I personally like the resulting eery mood. On the way down we got some more good views of the Torres del Paine massif.
Conclusion
If we had to do this trek again, we‘d do it in the opposite direction. You‘ll find better camping spots when hiking up and past Laguna Escondida.
So if you want to do something in the Torres del Paine region that is absolutely nothing like the O/W-Trek (no campgrounds, no permits, no fixed stages, no people) then go for it.
